December 28, 2009

Manuscript Monday: The dragonflies

This will be the last Manuscript Monday for a little while. I am changing directions, both geographically and in my writing. After three months of working on a non-fiction account of my experiences in India, I have realized the story I want to tell is better conveyed in fiction. The new year will bring a new start on page 1 of a new book.

It's discouraging to start from scratch again, but I expect my spirits will be bolstered by my upcoming trip to Hawaii. I'll be traveling around the islands for much of January. Perhaps there will be some new island tales for Fool's Compass. And, with luck, the first chapters of a new novel.

I want to thank everyone who has read and responded to Manuscript Mondays so far. I am sincerely grateful for your company and support while I try to cobble together my dreams, sitting at my desk in my pajamas. I wish you all a Happy New Year and the patience to trust that it is all happening as it should.

I leave you with another true tale of Goan magic.

With love and gratitude, Becca



I awoke ravenously hungry. The sun had barely risen. I doubted any cafes would be open, so I gobbled down the last of a package of biscuits I’d stashed in my purse and threw on my swimsuit.

I climbed down the hill and headed towards the beach. The first sun rays were just breaking over the mountains, illuminating the misty air. Even at this hour, there was plenty of life. Stray dogs chased each other into the waves. Indian men and women crossed the sand balancing large baskets of fruit and vegetables on their heads. Tourists saluted the sun on sandy yoga mats. In the middle of all this activity, the shorefront cafes remained resolutely closed. In some, waiters and cooks were still sleeping atop the tables.

If breakfast was impossible, it was time to swim. I dove into the warm waves, slipping under the white breakers to escape impact. I swam out as far as I dared, then flipped over to float on my back. I spread out like a starfish and opened my eyes to the blue sky. I saw hundreds of dragonflies zipping through the air overhead. I blinked to shake the last drops of saltwater from my lashes and looked again. They were really there.

The dragonflies dove and soared through the sky, flashes of light reflecting off their otherwise invisible wings. Some flew solo. Some spun together in a gravity-defying mating ritual. I’d never seen so many dragonflies in one place in my entire life. I couldn’t take my eyes off them. It was the sign I’d been looking for.

A month before my departure, after I’d burned my journals, given away my cat, and surrendered the keys to my apartment – after it was too late to turn back — I was hit with a huge wave of doubt about my decision to go to India. My friends in recovery had taught me the term “pulling a geographic” – essentially moving somewhere else and expecting your problems to disappear. It suddenly seemed like the whole India plan was yet another magic little story I’d made up in hopes that my life would get happy again.

I was supposed to be an adult, with a career and a home and a family of my own. I’d lost the first and I’d never even been close to having the rest. I was working two temp jobs in Sacramento and sleeping on a mattress in the yard of my boyfriend’s house because the open night sky was more comforting than his dismissive silence. My solution to getting my life back on track was to go sightseeing?

Once this doubt got hold of me, I simmered with anger and shame for most of the day. By evening, I was so desperate for the day to end that I decided to go sit on the porch and watch the California sun go down. Maybe by just breathing and focusing on something larger than myself, I could regain some vestige of inner calm.

I sat on the porch swing with a glass of iced tea and shuffled my deck of Medicine Cards. The Medicine Cards are like tarot cards based on Native American myths. Each one depicts an animal and a story about that animal's significance. A friend had given me the deck years ago, and I'd recently found it when I was packing up my apartment.

I held the deck tightly against my chest, closed my eyes and prayed to whatever Magic 8-ball wisdom governed the cards. “Oh Patron Saint of Laminated Animal Card Decks, oh Guru of Go Fish, please give me a clear idea of why I am supposed to go to India. Please give me faith to continue.”

I extracted one card from the deck and flipped it over. It was the swan. I opened the Medicine Cards book to the story of swan medicine.

In the tale, Swan is still in her ugly duckling phase and she is taking her first solo flight. As she soars over her homeland, she suddenly loses her bearings. Nothing looks familiar. All she can see is a swirling black hole... and a dragonfly.

Disoriented and afraid of losing herself in the black hole, Swan asks Dragonfly for help. Dragonfly explains that he is the guardian of the black hole, which is a gateway to other planes of imagination. To break the illusion of daily life and enter the other planes, one has to ask Dragonfly’s permission.

Swan is scared of the hole. Then she thinks about her frail, awkward body and her half-formed dreams and knows she needs to transform. She asks permission to enter. Dragonfly tells her that, in order to survive the black hole, she must surrender completely no matter what happens. She has to act with complete trust and never try to change Great Spirit’s plan.

Swan agrees. Dragonfly creates the magic that dispels the illusions of life and lets her enter the swirling, churning black hole. When Swan reemerges days later, she has a new graceful body with white feathers and a long neck. She tells Dragonfly that she surrendered completely to Great Spirit and was taken to “where the future lives.” Her faith has transformed her.

Reading this story as the sun set, I felt like a gong someone had just struck with a mallet. A single chime of knowing reverberated through my body. I, too, was an awkward, half-formed creation. I had lost my bearings and the comforting illusion of my daily life. My home, my pet, my work, my relationship, and my entire country were disappearing into a void. I was being asked to surrender to a plan I didn’t understand and literally fly into a new world.

It was terrifying, but Swan’s story seemed to promise that, if I trusted this process completely, I would return a creature of strength and grace. I wanted this more than anything.

In the weeks leading up to my departure, I clutched the story of Swan to my heart like a magic talisman. Whenever a dragonfly buzzed past me in the yard, I stopped and said a prayer of gratitude. When doubt settled on me, I'd go walking at a nearby lake and feel inspired by the sight of the flying insects. I hosted my going away party at Dragonfly Restaurant in Sacramento – although I didn’t tell anyone why I’d chosen that place.

Once I landed in India, I forgot about Swan and Dragonfly in the rush of culture shock. I’d certainly forgotten my commitment to trust the process. Instead I’d been begging for insight, worrying about where I should be, and complaining in my journals that I felt forsaken.

Now, floating on the Arabian Sea and watching the dragonflies’ aerial ballet, I realized I’d been guided all along. Before I left for India, I had definitely decided not to come to Goa. From the moment I stepped off the plane, everyone I met had pointed me here. Even after I'd surrendered and took a bus to this seaside village, I’d cluelessly walked miles in the wrong direction until my shoes literally fell off my feet. Finally, in a state of complete exhaustion and surrender, I was led to my perfect cliff-top room, where I slept deeply and awoke to a fleet of dragonflies. An impossible number. A miraculous number.

How could I have thought myself forsaken? I still didn’t have a plan, but for now, I had something more valuable. I had faith.

December 22, 2009

My spoon is just the right size, thank you

This morning I was meditating - sitting quietly with my eyes closed, running through my usual FAQs for the Great Universal Whatchamacallit. Questions like: "What the hell do you want from me?" and "How can I get out of my own way to achieve it?"

I was hoping for holy light and the clear voice of divine direction. What I got was a mental replay of this cartoon by Don Hertzfeldt:



At first, this seemed like the usual pop-culture flotsam my mind kicks up to keep me from achieving enlightenment. I can't sit still for 30 seconds before my inner DJ starts spinning Britney Spears or replaying soundbites from "The Office." But upon further reflection, I think there's a message in this cartoon for anyone with big dreams and bigger confusion about what to do with them.

(If you haven't watched the cartoon yet, you really should, or this post will cease to make sense. Go ahead. Click on it now. I'll wait. Ready? Awesome!)

So here's my big insight: We have to stop complaining about the size of our spoons. It never occurs to the stick figure in the film that maybe his spoon (his appetite, his desires, his aspirations and creative goals) are just the right size. It's his bowl of food that is too small. Don't limit your dreams to fit your circumstances. Create the circumstances that fit your dreams.

Today, I am an optimistic banana. And so are you.

December 21, 2009

Manuscript Monday: Buy! Buy! Buy!

I met a Swedish woman named Johanna on the train to Goa and she invited me stay in her vacation cottage in Anjuna. I'd been feeling lonely in Mumbai, so I happily agreed, even though I'd originally planned to skip Anjuna, a town known primarily for a nearly extinct rave scene and a huge weekly flea market.

Our cottage was right on the sea and the view was incredible. It was very early in Goa's tourist season. We had the whole beach to ourselves. My first night in Anjuna, with the ocean waves whispering in my ears, was the first night in India I slept straight through until morning.



I woke with one mission - to sit on the beach until every trace of jet lag and culture shock had melted into the sand. Johanna also woke with a mission - to go shopping. I had no interest in buying anything, but I didn't want to alienate my host on my first day, so I agreed to tag along.


I hung back as Johanna haggled with merchants over silk trousers and silver earrings, but I was the only other tourist in a mile-long row of shops. The vendors were not going to let me off easily.

One by one, the salespeople presiding over stalls filled with batik prints, ornate boxes, wrap skirts, hammocks and trance music CDs called to me. “Hello, madam! Come have a look my shop? Many nice things! Hello!”



“Hello!” I waved from my non-committal place in the middle of the dirt road. When their calls did not budge me, they got more assertive. A teenage girl in a shiny blue dress and bare feet marched over to me, kicking up red dust with each step. “What you looking for?” she demanded. “Sarong? I have nice sarong. You want dress? Everything, I have!”

“No thank you,” I said. “I’m just waiting for my friend.”

“You come look my shop!” She grabbed my arm and began pulling me down the road. I laughed nervously and attempted to disengage myself.

Then another shop girl grabbed my other arm. “You come look my shop,” she said. “My shop is right here. Come look. Looking is free.”



I suddenly realized my error in coming to Goa pre-season. I’d thought only of avoiding the tourist rush, but being one of the town’s only visitors meant every merchant hoped I'd provide their daily income. The two girls were literally pulling me in two directions like a wishbone.

“Stop! Please let go!” I said. One dropped my hand and I stumbled into the other, who didn’t miss a beat as I jarred her tiny frame.

“Come!” she said. I looked over my shoulder for Johanna, who was still in negotiations for a yellow silk sarong. The girl dragged me into her shop and began grabbing things off racks and tables. “You like dress? You like? Or pants? You want pants?” She whirled around and swept a pile of scarves off a table into her arms. “Or shawl, you want? I have red, blue, green. What color? How many you want?”

In the U.S., I am the kind of person who will spend half an hour hunting for something in a store rather than ask a clerk where to find it. This high-intensity customer service caused my brain to short circuit.

“I’m sorry, I have to go find my friend,” I said to the girl, who was unfolding sarongs with a flourish. I scurried out of her shop and back down the road, keeping my arms pinned to my sides so no one could grab them. When I found Johanna, she had a new sarong draped around her neck and was busy pricing silk pants. I told her I’d see her on the beach.

I was the only one on the sand that day. I laid out my sarong like a beach towel and sprawled on top of it. The sun was bright, so I propped a hat over my eyes. As the heat poured into my limbs, I felt myself begin to relax.

“Hello, madam! Hello!”

I pulled the hat off my eyes and squinted into the face of a young woman leaning over me. She wore a blue and white dress, with a long braid snaking over her shoulder. “Where you from?” she asked.

I sat up and smiled. “America.”

“Oh, America!” she said. “Your skin, it’s so white!”

“Yeah, I just got to the beach,” I said with a laugh.

“You whiiiiite,” she said, drawing out the word. “You white like chicken!” She threw back her head and cackled. “How old are you?” she asked.

“33,” I said.

“You look older!”

“Um…thanks?” It wasn’t the most flattering conversation, but I felt happy that a local was making the effort to get to know me. Then she stopped the small talk and clutched my hand.

“You come have a look my shop, now!”

Of course. “Not now,” I said, with mounting irritation. “I just want to sit on the beach by myself.”

She protested and pulled my arm. Before I could convince her to leave, another woman joined us. “Where you from?” she asked.

I wrested my hand away and turned to her. “America,” I said.

“Oh. White skin. You white like chicken, eh? How old are you?”

“33.”

“You look older.”

What the hell? Did these women all attend the same sales seminar? Generate Sales with Mild Insults!

“I’m sorry,” I said. “I really just want to enjoy the beach. No shopping.”

“Then you come later,” the second woman said. She thrust her hand in my face, demanding a handshake. “You promise!”

I shook her hand out of politeness. The first woman held her hand out too. “You promise me!” she said.

I shook her hand. The two walked off. “You can’t break promise!” one called over her shoulder. I laid back down and put the hat over my eyes. Finally, some peace.

“Hello, madam!”

God. Damn. It.

“What?” I said grumpily, yanking the hat off my eyes.

“Where you from?” Another shop girl leaned over my sarong.

“America,” I groaned, and climbed to my feet.

“You white,” she said. “White skin. Like chicken!”

“I’m sorry, I can’t talk now. I am going swimming.” I took off at a brisk pace towards the surf.

“Come have a look my shop?” the girl asked, running alongside me.

“No,” I said. “I’m swimming.”

“After swimming, you come have a look?”

I marched straight into the waves. To my surprise, she followed me without hesitation, soaking her ankle-length dress. “You promise!” she said.

I jumped away from her and splashed out to sea, only to discover that I’d chosen the rocky, shallow end of the beach. The rocks ahead looked too sharp to walk across and too shallow to swim over.

I stood still in waist-deep water and tried to gain composure. Logically, I knew these women were just trying to make a living. There were so few tourists right now that every sale meant a lot. Still, I was on a tight budget and I had to carry every possession on my back for six months. I simply couldn't afford all these elephant tchotchkes and Stevie Nicks costumes. And logic aside, the inescapable sales pressure was making me crazy.

After several minutes of letting the waves lap my thighs and attempting to calm myself with deep-breathing exercises, I turned towards the shore and was stunned to see the shop girl still standing in the ocean in her dress, waiting for me. Water slowly creeped up her skirt towards her waist. Behind her, Johanna was making her way down the cliff to the beach as more shop girls headed out onto the sand to intercept her.

The girl in the soaked dress grabbed my arm. “OK. No more swimming. Now you come look my shop!”

I wrenched my arm out of her grasp and stormed past her as fast as I could through knee-high water. The shop girls heading towards Johanna detoured to me because I was closer. Included in their ranks were the two I’d already spoken to, one of whom ran over like we were old friends.

“Remember me?” she said. “You promised. Come look my shop now!”

“No!” I said sharply. “I’m not shopping. Go away.”

She reached for my arm and I yelled, louder than I’d intended. “Don’t touch me!”

“But you promised,” she said, reaching out again. By now the wet girl had slogged over to my other side and the other girls were approaching as well. I was the last human in a horror movie where the zombies ate wallets. And solitude.

“Can’t you understand?” I pleaded. “I don’t want to shop. I just want to sit on the beach. Alone!”

They kept up their chorus of calls. “Come! You come now! Come look! Looking is free!”

“NO! NO NO!” I closed my eyes and screamed out the words, fists clenched. “LEAVE ME ALONE!” The shop girls stared at me with wonder, and then at each other. Chicken lady has gone insane.

When I opened my eyes, I saw Johanna standing just beyond the group, staring at me with her mouth open in shock. I instantly felt ashamed. Her expression seemed to say, “Oh! So this is why you don’t invite strangers from the train to share your vacation rental.”

I pushed past the girls. Though still ashamed, I felt a very definite satisfaction when they moved aside and let me walk unhindered. I collected my sarong and called to Johanna that I would be taking a nap. I climbed the hill to our cottage, slipped back under my mosquito net, and wept. On my first day in one of the most tourist-friendly towns in India, I’d lasted two hours outside.

If I couldn’t handle Goa, the most Westernized part of India, how would I ever last six months in this country?

December 19, 2009

Real-life Job Conversations: Part 3

Today's RLJC took place entirely inside my head. (What? You don't talk to yourself when you're bored?) I was in a local Raley's, trying to distribute little cups of off-brand breakfast cereal. People don't get excited about real Corn Chex, so you can imagine how thrilled they were about this knock-off variety.

Customers blew past me as if I was invisible. It was like I was begging for food, instead of giving it away. This happens whenever my supervisor assigns me a boring demo product. I don't take it personally, but it means the shift drags on forever because there's no chance of a distracting conversation. Except in my own head, as follows:

Bored me: I can't believe I have to stand here for 5 more hours.

Vegan me: I can't believe the store manager put me in the meat aisle. Not only do I have to stand here for 5 more hours, but I have to stare at plastic-wrapped packages of sausage and bacon. So gross.

Bored me: Those packages of chorizo are upside down. That is making me crazy. I can't stare at that for 5 hours. I have to go flip them right side up.

Vegan me: Are you serious? You're going to face the meat aisle? Why? So more customers will buy the pretty dead animals?

Bored me: I don't condone eating meat. It's just annoying to look at. Here, just let me put them back. [Fixes chorizo display and runs back to post.]

Vegan me: I cannot believe you just did that. Did you learn nothing from all those PETA videos we watched in college? Meat is murder.

Bored me: I know. I won't do it anymore. I'll just stand here and let people ignore me and my cereal and I... Agggh! That lady just put the bacon back on the wrong shelf.

Vegan me: Don't go fix it. Don't!

Bored me: I can't help it! [Replaces bacon and straightens hot links.] It was all out of order.

Vegan me: When I get off work, I'm researching OCD on the internet.

Bored me: Right after multiple personality disorder.

Vegan me: Right.

December 14, 2009

Manuscript Monday: Culture goggles and beer shock

I arrived in India without a social compass. It took a long time to find a balance between the public briskness of India and the instant familial closeness of the Indians who chose to befriend me. If I smiled at my fellow pedestrians, I'd be met with hard stares. If I managed to bridge the gap to conversation, they'd usually offer to take me home and feed me for weeks. It was an emotional 0 to 60, and it was hard to get used to. Long after I thought I knew the customs, I'd continually offend people by being too distant (i.e. I invited you to my cousin's wedding five minutes after meeting you. Why didn't you come?) or too familiar (i.e. You smiled at me, therefore I will spend the next hour following you through the streets trying to touch your butt.).

Of course, my first week in India, I didn't have a clue how my social graces looked to others. It was all guesswork.

The day before I left Mumbai, I met a young man named Raj while browsing the city's sidewalk bookstalls. He had moved to Mumbai only 22 days earlier. There were few job opportunities in his village in Rajasthan, so he had come to the city to earn money to put his younger siblings through school. We had a pleasant conversation about Indian geography and the American economy, so I thought nothing of accepting his invitation to meet him later that night for chai.



Mumbai seemed so different after dark. The brutal heat subsided and traffic was milder. The honking and engine-revving gave way to the sound of music drifting out of glowing shop windows. People crowded around steaming snack carts on every street corner. Movie-theater marquis lit up the night with electric pinks and silvers, pointing neon fingers towards the full moon. And there was Raj, leaning against the train station wall. As I walked up, he pushed himself upright and fell into step beside me.

“I’m glad you came,” he said, sounding as if he wasn’t sure I would. “Now we get chai, unless…” He paused and looked at me hopefully. “You want beer?”

I rarely drink, but a cold beer sounded more refreshing than tea after such a hot day. “Beer's fine,” I said. "Whatever you want." He smiled.

Raj led me down some side streets to a two-story café and steered me upstairs to pricier air-conditioned tables. We were the only ones on the upper floor, except for the waitstaff, who were crowded around a televised cricket match. They took no notice of our arrival as we settled into a booth. I shivered in the blast of frigid air blowing on us from the wall unit directly above our table.

“Nice?” Raj pointed to the A/C unit and raised his eyebrows. Then he turned and yelled something in Hindi at the waiters, one of whom reluctantly left the TV to bring us a large bottle of Kingfisher beer and two glasses.

We toasted and began talking. He drank two glassfuls very quickly, topped off my glass, and ordered a second bottle. Earlier in the day, he’d mentioned his father’s drinking problem and now I wondered if I should have insisted on chai. His eyes grew heavy-lidded. I could see the intoxication in his expression.

He spoke about his first love, a girl from his hometown in Rajasthan. “Her parents made her get married to this old… this older man.” He had trouble finding words, but I couldn’t tell whether this was because of emotion or alcohol. “She didn’t want to marry him. She wanted to run away with me, but I couldn’t risk going to prison if we got caught. My family needs me. She married and she wanted us to see each other. Can I speak with you frankly?”

I nodded.

“We met a few times and we had sex. Each time, she told me she loved me, but after four times I told her no more. I said, ‘You are married now.’ And she cried.”

He unbuttoned one sleeve of his shirt and pushed it up to his elbow. He thrust his arm towards me so I could see a handful of pocked scars dotting his inner wrist. “I burned myself,” he said solemnly. “I took a cigarette and…” He made jabbing motions at his wrist. “Here. Here. Here.”

“Why would you do that?” I asked sadly.

“For love,” he said. “My friend jumped off a building for love. He did not live.”

I stared into my beer. I felt tipsy and inarticulate in the face of such grief.

“Hey,” he said gently. “Don’t be sad. It’s OK. Now I have you.”

I jerked my head up. “What?”

“You are so beautiful. I’m so lucky to be with you. You are my rock.”

I suddenly realized I was on a date. When did that happen? When I agreed to meet him after dark? When I chose beer instead of chai?

I didn’t want to be on a date. Raj was nearly 10 years younger than me and I technically had a boyfriend back home — even if he’d stopped answering my e-mails. I needed to make it clear that only friendship was on the table. I decided to stick to platonic conversational topics.

“So, how many people have you had sex with?” Raj asked.

“What?” I said again.

“How many…”

“I heard you,” I said. “That’s not something I want to talk about.”

“Oh,” he said. “I’m sorry if I did something wrong. I thought Americans were very frank.”

“It’s OK,” I said. “Let’s order some food.” I told him I was vegetarian and suggested he order for us. I was hoping to learn more about local cuisine. He called the increasingly annoyed waiters away from the cricket match and placed our order in Hindi.

When the food arrived, he’d ordered a plate of tandoori chicken for himself and a plate of French fries for me. He looked very proud that he knew what Americans liked to eat, so I smiled and dug in. French fries are the best drinking food anyway.

Along with our meal came another 40 ounce bottle of Kingfisher. I wasn’t sure how much I’d had, since he kept topping off my glass, but I knew I was over my limit. I pushed my glass away and ordered a bottle of water.

Raj continued drinking and talking about his life. He began referring to someone named Sunil, and when I asked for clarification, it turned out that was his name.

“Why did you tell me your name was Raj?” I asked.

“Raj is easier for foreigners,” he said. Sunil turned out to be the first of many men named Raj I would meet on my trip. I’m not sure anyone in India is actually named Raj.

As he drained our third bottle, Sunil/Raj turned the conversation back to sex. “I saw this film from Europe,” he began. “Two women have sex. Does this happen in America?”

Surprised and stupidly buzzed, I let my guard down. “Yes, it does. I’m sure it happens in India, too.”

Sunil looked at me skeptically before continuing. “The women had a dick, a plastic dick. Do they have those in America?”

I burst out laughing. I knew I was giving him a terrible impression of American conversational propriety, but I couldn’t help it. “Do you have one?” he pressed.

I sobered up. “I don’t want to talk about that,” I said. “Let’s go.”

After the frigid restaurant, the night air was a warm blanket. Drowsy and drunk, I followed Sunil back to the main road and down to the sea. We sat on a stone wall with the ocean stretched out before us. Ornate horse-drawn carriages pulled tourists along Marine Drive. Sunil pointed out the pearl-like lampposts dotting the perimeter of the bay. “This is called the Queen’s Necklace,” he told me. “Each light is a jewel.”

Sunil touched my hand, and then pulled his hand away quickly. I looked at him. This is ridiculous, I thought. I am 33 years old and this boy is 25. I’m intoxicated, I don’t know him and he obviously wants things to go further. I need to leave.

I thought of the walk back to my hotel, more than a mile, and felt the sluggishness of alcohol in my limbs. Maybe I could wait a little longer and sober up.

I looked at the moon, shining down on the Gateway to India. A part of me felt giddy about the whole situation: sitting on the edge of the sea in Mumbai, drunk on foreign beer, next to a young Indian man who obviously wanted to make out. Was this really my life now? I didn’t feel attracted to Sunil, but a part of me wanted to kiss him out of some “carpe diem” impulse. Seize the boy.

Then he spoke. “So, remember when I told you about that film I saw with the two women?”

No. This was not going to happen. I was not going to be the slutty Western woman Indians expected me to be. “Why do you keep asking me about sex?” I asked angrily. “It’s not polite.”

“I’m sorry,” he said. “I think I can ask you anything. You are my rock. I can ask you about these movies.”

“No, you can’t,” I said. “I have to go now.”

He insisted on negotiating a cab for me, since Indians get better prices than tourists. I agreed and he flagged one down and talked to the driver for a few minutes in Hindi before turning back to me. “He says 100 rupees. It’s more because it is night.” Sunil looked apologetic. This was not a great price.

“Fine,” I said. I just wanted to be back in my hotel room. He held the door open for me and I slid into the backseat. Then he jumped in too.

I hadn’t expected this. As we rode up Marine Drive, Sunil began talking about how we should go to Elephanta Island in the morning.

“I can’t,” I said. “I’m leaving tomorrow.” This was true, although my train didn’t leave until midnight. Sunil sighed and put his head in his hands with resignation. The taxi turned onto MG road near my hotel.

“I guess I will sleep on the street tonight,” he said. I felt confused. This was clearly a ploy to get an invitation to my room, but it was probably also true.

“No,” I said. “Go back to your friends’ house.”

“I can’t,” he said. “It’s too late. The trains don’t run.”

I hesitated as the taxi stopped. I didn’t want to leave him on the street, but there was no way I was inviting him up to my closet-sized room.

“I’m sorry,” I said, as I handed the driver my money. “It was nice meeting you.”

I leaned over and drunkenly hugged him. His fingers wound into my hair and he squeezed me against his torso. I pulled away and jumped out of the taxi. I ran into my hotel without looking back.

December 11, 2009

Huzzah!

I finished writing about my first visit to Mumbai a few minutes ago. This feels like a victory because my India book has been moving so much slower than I initially hoped it would. Writing about my first week in India was like taking a road trip across the southern U.S. For awhile you zip through states every few hours--and then you hit Texas. You drive all day, go to sleep, wake up, and you're still in Texas. You're moving just as fast as before, but it feels like you aren't getting anywhere.

That's how the last month of writing this book has been. Work all day, go to sleep, wake up, and I'm still in my first week in Mumbai.

But not anymore! As of this afternoon, the manuscript "me" is finally on that midnight train to Goa. (Whenever I think of the phrase "midnight train to Goa," Gladys Knight and the Pips start singing in my head. Follow the link for awesome afros, bow ties and synchronized backup dancing.)

Next stop, the beach!

December 8, 2009

Manuscript Tuesday: snow delay!




Yesterday my usually snow-free hometown was blessed with half a foot of white powder! Our power was out all day, so I was forced to forgo blogging for winter walks, snowman construction and knitting by the fire. (Forced, I tell you!)



Today we have both snow and power, so I humbly offer the next installment of Manuscript Monday on a non-alliterative Tuesday. Today's story involves the Indian festival of Navratri, which celebrates Shakti, the divine feminine, with nine nights of revelry in October.


I awoke at sunset. I felt refreshed, but annoyed that I’d guaranteed myself another sleepless night with “The Nanny” by failing to stay awake all day. It was too early for dinner, so I headed to the internet café to check my e-mail.

While I was sleeping, the bustling five-lane road in front of my hotel been transformed into a discotheque. Two large flatbed trucks were parked in the far lane. The first carried a wall of speakers large enough to amplify a concert at the Hollywood Bowl. They were piled precariously high, anchored by a quartet of men lounging on top. Judging by the men's smug smiles, these were the VIP seats.

Two long ropes stretched from the back bumper of the first truck to the front bumper of the second truck, forming the rectangular borders of an improvised dance floor. About 100 people, mostly women, were squeezed into this roped-off nightclub, dancing wildly to Indian pop music.

I wanted to get closer to the action, but the rush-hour traffic was moving too fast. A steady stream of cars and scooters veered around the parked trucks, accelerating impatiently past the curb where I stood. I began a little dance of my own: Step into the gutter with my left foot. Then my right foot. Lean into the road. Yow! Jump back! (James Brown would have been proud.)



Unbeknownst to me, I had an audience. A bus driver sitting in his parked tour bus had been watching me execute this curbside cha-cha underneath his windshield. Once his amusement wore off, he decided to take pity on me.

He disembarked and stood next to me, silently. Our eyes met. He gestured forward with one arm and began boldly crossing the street with the supernatural traffic reflexes of a native Mumbaiker. I was very certain I would pass out from fright if I looked at the oncoming headlights, so I narrowed my focus to the crisp short sleeve of his shirt. I kept pace with him as we haltingly progressed across four lanes of speeding vehicles. No one slowed for us; we simply found spaces between their rushing paths. As soon as my feet touched the safety of the sidewalk, my crossing guard disappeared into the crowd.

I looked up to find myself staring into the eyes of a goddess. The bed of the rear truck held an altar to the goddess Durga. She was dressed in shocking pink robes, topped with an elaborate gold crown and armloads of fresh marigold leis. Electric lights, gold columns and a pink lotus-flower chandelier formed a pastel Easter-egg universe around her.

I was mesmerized. Here was an image of female strength unprecedented in my world. Christian goddesses, when acknowledged at all, were generally seen wearing chaste robes and nursing babies. Riding a lion, Durga carried a sharp trident in one hand and swung an ornate hatchet in one of three others. Obviously, there was more to this female force than piety and childcare.

With the irrational adoration of a child, I wanted Durga to be my Indian mother. I’d spent the whole week scurrying from hotel room to restaurant, dodging the stares of strangers and feeling homesick. Now I wanted Durga to use her axe to cut a path through this busy, draining country and show me what I was supposed to be doing here. Where was my purpose? Who and what needed my love here?

I had no idea how to ask her. I wasn’t even sure how to pray here in rush-hour traffic with Punjabi techno rattling my eardrums.

Confused, I fell back on the familiar role of tourist and attempted to take her picture. Shot after shot, my camera refused to focus. Clearly, this was not the way to embrace her. There was nothing to do but dance.

I walked around to the front of the truck to watch the worshippers. They leapt and shimmied inside the roped-off dance floor with an abandon rarely seen in public India. Light bounced off the gold sequins on their saris, off sweat glistening on brown skin, off their bright ecstatic eyes.

Music vibrated through the concrete sidewalk and right through my body like a sonic massage, erasing all fatigue. I wanted to dance, but I held back. I’d read that some religious events in India were “Hindus only” and I didn’t want to offend anyone. I searched the crowd for other tourists and saw none. I touched the rope, longing to join the dance, waiting for permission. I stayed there, swaying my hips slightly, until the trucks began their slow roll down the block with the crowd still dancing along between them. Durga, and my prayer for her aid, slipped away.




Freed of the dance-party bottleneck, the traffic resumed its five-lane frenzy in front of my hotel. I was stranded on the other side. I took a step off the curb, looked at the speeding cars, and stepped back onto the sidewalk again. I realized this might take awhile.

Suddenly, the bus driver who’d escorted me across appeared at my side again. It seemed incredible that he’d been waiting for me, since he obviously had a job to do, but there he was. I followed him lane by lane back to the door of my hotel. Then he nodded curtly, without smiling or attempting to make conversation, and boarded his bus again.

I’d failed to articulate my prayers for guidance, but someone was still looking out for me.

December 2, 2009

You know you're homesick when...

I found this list in my travel journal, written about two weeks into my trip.

You Know You're Homesick When

1. You weep at the aerial shot of Manhattan in Hellboy 2 while thinking, "America!"

2. You go to see Hellboy 2

3. A fly lands on your arm and you think, "Aw, Francois Fly."

4. You tear up at a techno remix of Bryan Adam's "Summer of '69"

5. You contemplate searching for Wiccan friendship rituals on the internet and you're not Wiccan

6. Your mom offers to drop everything and fly out to meet you after reading your letters